Time Out Says
The man behind Wagamama launched the Hakkasan brand in London in 2001, on a road so dingy that wandering down it you half wonder whether you should have come armed. In spite of this, and certainly helped by the Michelin star it received two years later, the place – a chic modern Chinese interpretation – became a bona fide smash, the Clooneys and Craigs of the world barging in, in search of peerless dim sum and delicious dark corners.
Those same dark corners, divided up by geometric, Oriental wooden screens, are just as present in our city’s iteration, as is that lighting, that sends beams down from bulbs suspended low over the tables, the rays reflecting up off their wooden surface and bathing its diners in a half-light so generous and forgiving you might want to take it home with you.
But enough about surface. Here is a restaurant that breathes in the depths. Of its flavours, of its standards, of its dedication, detail and decadence.
The menu is Chinese through a prism of the modern West, presented with a finesse the cuisine has never been readily associated with. Our most recent visit takes in a frankly fab four of grilled Chilean seabass with Chinese honey (as unctuous as it is faultless), wok-fry Wagyu beef with Sha Cha sauce (melts on impact), stir-fry duck with Shanghai bean sauce (a riot of spice) and a stir-fry lotus root and asparagus in black pepper dish so earth-shatteringly good it very nearly reversed our thoughts on vegetarianism.
Be nice to yourself. Go eat. And see you there next week.
The Bill (for two)
Chilean sea bass QR255
Wok-fry Wagyu QR160
Stri-fry duck QR115
Lotus and asparagus QR70
The bottom line
With lighting that makes you look as good as the food tastes, this is award-winning, date night gold.
By Time Out Doha staff | 01 May 2016
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