Big city chic

Istanbul
Straddling two continents, Istanbul is a thrilling mix of old, new, Asia and Europe. There are awe inspiring monuments to the past, a cutting edge arts scene, and some fantastic nights out to be had. In other words, whatever you’re after, you’ll find it here.

You’ll want to start by exploring inside the ancient city walls of Sultanahmet. With its omnipresent street vendors, overpriced cafés and backpacker hotels, it’s a classic tourist trap, but it’s a price worth paying to see some of the world’s most stunning architectural treasures. Perched on top of the hill, Topkapi Palace screams excess. For centuries, this labyrinth of gardens, chambers and living quarters was home to the Ottoman sultans. If the walls could tell stories, they would whisper stories of murder, debauchery, decadence and betrayal – no wonder the empire eventually crumbled.

Walk from here down to the jaw-dropping Aya Sophia. Inaugurated by Constantius II in 360AD, the great dome was the world’s largest cathedral for nearly 1,000 years. Sultan Mehmed II had the building converted into a mosque after Constantinople fell to the Turks in 1453. Its magnificence is such that even the fabulous Blue Mosque down the road, built several centuries later, cannot trump the grand old dame.

This mix of Roman antiquity, early Christian architecture and wonders of the Ottoman Empire is a wonder to behold. But there’s far more to Istanbul than relics from the past. Make sure you spend an evening exploring Istiklal Caddesi. This 3km-long avenue stretches from Taksim Square to Tünel, and the maze of alleyways leading off it is a cacophony of bars, restaurants and shops.

If you’re looking for a party, you’ll find one here – rock bands play in noisy clubs, and folk musicians weave between tables in traditional bars. The buzz and sense of urban optimism is palpable in the night air. If you’re feeling weary the following morning, don’t despair as the perfect remedy awaits: a traditional Turkish bath. Cagaloglu Hamam, constructed in 1741, was the last hamam to be built during the Ottoman Empire. You’ll get a thorough scrub down and a massage, followed by a cold shower and then a reviving tea at the old café.

At sundown, head to Bebek for a bite to eat. Nestled by the water, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Monaco. Yachts bob in the harbour, luxury homes look out over the water, and lush greenery leads into the city’s most exclusive district where chic Istanbullus pose in street cafés and bars. Visit if you want to see where the hip crowd party. There are few foreigners yet – it’s not listed in the tour guides – so enjoy a night out here and you’ll see yet another side to Istanbul. The phrase ‘melting pot’ doesn’t even come close to describing this city of surprises.
Jeremy Lawrence

Don’t leave without…

Haggling at the Grand Bazaar
Forget Fifth Avenue – nothing compares to shopping in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. Visitors and Istanbullus alike wander through its ancient and seemingly never-ending arched halls.

Going underground
Yerebatan is sometimes known as the Underground Cistern or the Sunken Palace. Built by the Romans, Yerebatan’s pride is undoubtedly its mysterious twin Medusa carvings. See www.yerebatan.com.

Getting on two wheels
Hire a bicycle and explore the traffic-free Princes Islands. If you’re feeling fit, visit the monastery of Ayia Yorgi on Büyükada. It’s a hell of a hill to climb, but the café serves scrumptious home-cooked fare.
Flights between DOHA and ISTANBUL take around three-and-a-half hours with qatar airways, from QR1,740, all taxes and surcharges included. visa requirements vary according to nationality, but can be obtained from the embassy in AL istqlal street (495 1300).