Mango Tree first opened its doors in the heart of Bangkok in 1994. Since then branches have opened in London, a stone’s throw from Buckingham Palace, and in the shadow of the Burj Khalifia in Dubai. It seems fitting, then, that the latest Mango Tree is set upon the prestigious Pearl-Qatar and has breathtaking views across the Arabian Gulf.

The newest eatery on the Pearl is spacious, simple and modern in design. Inside, dark wood furnishings are comfortable and well positioned, and tables are adorned with tea lights, which cast a subtle glow across the restaurant. The impressive grey stone feature wall draws the eye. Long strands of glass baubles in varying sizes flank 10 lifelike models of fish, which create an illusion of swimming across this distinctive design.

The beautifully appointed terraced area features wicker furniture, and hurricane lamps protect candles from the sea breeze. It’s the perfect time of year for al fresco dining, and it’s busy the night we dine. Serving staff scurry to and from the large, open-plan kitchen, where several chefs are busy preparing tempting Thai cuisine, creating mouthwatering aromas that drift on the night air and pique our appetites.

The menu is lengthy, with hot and cold appetisers on offer, as well as a soup option. Po pia goong (deep-fried spring rolls) and gai hor bai toey (free-range chicken wrapped in pandan leaves) are our appetiser selections. The spring rolls are delicious – deep-fried and wonderfully crisp – with a sweet chilli sauce that is a perfect combination of sweet and spicy. The chicken in pandan leaves is equally appetising, and the fact that the chicken is free-range is evident in its flavour. As you unwrap this steaming parcel, the coriander and garlic aromas greet you, and one bite of the moist chicken releases the mouthwatering juices retained within the pandan leaf during cooking. Accompanied by a sweet tamarind dipping sauce, this starter comes highly recommended.

We move on to our main course with some eagerness. The menu caters for all and includes a selection of curries, a charcoal grill section, vegetarian options and several Thai specialty dishes. There’s a heavy emphasis on seafood, with crab, prawns, lobster and sea bass all making an appearance. Service here is at just the right level, attentive but not overbearing, and the food arrives in a timely manner. Among our selections are nua yang nam tok (char-gilled rib eye), gaeng karee gai (chicken, onion and potato served in a yellow curry), kai jiew gai (Thai-style omelette), pad thai goong (stir-fried noodles with prawns in pad thai sauce) and steamed jasmine rice. The food is well presented and, with the incredibly generous portion sizes, we quickly realise that we were over-ambitious when ordering.

The beef is the first dish we try; sliced thickly, it’s served alongside al dente vegetables with a chilli dipping sauce. Overly pink and not cooked to the requested ‘medium’, it’s also slightly fatty and chewy in texture. Disappointed but in no way defeated, we move on to the curry. Served in a large bowl, it’s abundantly filled with chunks of chicken, slices of onion and hunks of potato in a fragrant sauce. It’s perfectly spiced – not too hot, but with a slight kick to the tastebuds. The jasmine rice had been recommended with our curry, and it’s the ideal accompaniment; light and fluffy, it absorbs the rich sauce into every grain.

Thai food can be very spicy, but that is not always the case. Mango Tree serves authentic dishes from all four of Thailand’s main culinary regions, each of which has its own distinctive flavours and style. So you can have rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild food influenced by the Chinese cooking style from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

Already feeling slightly full we tuck into the omelette. Tinged with gold on the surface and soft and yielding inside, it’s perfectly cooked and every mouthful yields a delicious combination of the minced chicken, piquant spring onions and pungent coriander. The pad thai is cleverly adorned with spun egg, and is one of the best I have tasted. Although there’s a slight shortage of prawns, the noodles are a wonderful mélange of tastes and textures, with the crunch of the beansprouts contrasting with the softness of the noodles and the sweet-and-sour of the sauce.

Dessert seems an impossible dream, but temptation wins over good sense. The mango cheesecake is set on a soft but slightly crunchy chocolate base. Lusciously creamy in the middle and crowned with a tangy mango sauce, it’s served with slices of fresh mango. The ice cream is a pleasant palate cleanser. and the mango and coconut scoops are tasty and refreshing.

Serving up authentic and traditional recipes, Mango Tree uses a subtle layering of flavours to produce dishes of the highest quality. In this health-conscious time, Thai food is ever increasing in popularity and is, in fact, one of the healthiest of the world’s cuisines. But beware, Mango Tree’s sophisticated take on Thai is not for those on a budget. We’ll definitely be back for more, but maybe next time we’ll go lighter on our wallet and our waistlines and skip dessert.

The bill (for two)
1x po pia goong QR52
1x gai hor bai toey QR55
1x nua yang QR110
1x gaeng karee gai QR74
1x kai jiew gai QR65
1x phad Thai QR65
1x khao suey QR20
1x cheesecake QR52
1x ice cream QR32
3x Evian QR75
Total (incl charges) QR600