Some people will only eat Italian food in Italy. There is something to be said for this stance; Italian food will always taste better in Italy. Food, like wine, absorbs the surrounding air, and Middle Eastern air does have a distinctly different quality than European. But when you live in Qatar and crave a magnificent plate of spaghetti al Pomodoro Fresco e Basilico, what to do?

Il Teatro is one solution, an upscale Italian restaurant in the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel. Everything about this place, from the gigawatt chandeliers to the plush carpets, exudes extravagance, not something often associated with good Italian food, but then Il Teatro doesn’t claim to be traditional; positioning itself as ‘contemporary Italian’. We settle ourselves into the deep chairs near the windows looking out onto the Corniche, as dhows with twinkling lights float by.

When our antipasti arrives, it captures our full attention; mixed rucola salad with cherry tomatoes and shaved parmesan for me. My dining partner figures you can always tell a restaurant by their calamari and chose the deep-fried calamari rings with tomato sauce and mayonnaise. Have you ever seen mayonnaise on an Italian menu? We were unsure.

The display of food has more in common with French haute cuisine than peasant Italian, but from the first bite the origins of this table are clear. Rucola so fresh it almost bites back, cherry tomatoes that squirt in your mouth, and balsamico. And to our surprise, and vast approval, the calamari wasn’t overcooked. This is very good food. Excellent, even.

The appetisers did their job, and our mouths were salivating for more. Next up: pasta. In my opinion, the best pasta I ever had ever eaten was prepared by my Italian neighbor – she mixed flour with water, took a rolling pin to it, and a few days later we had a sumptuous meal with freshly-made tomato sauce. My standards are high.

The linguine with pan-seared, local sardine, anchovies and toasted pine nuts cosied right up to my standards and gave them a pat on the head as they rose above. The linguine was cooked to an absolutely precise al dente. Unfortunately, the mozzarella ravioli with black olive pesto in tomato and basil broth sounded succulent, but didn’t come close – the ravioli was tough and the mozzarella chewy. The pesto, in contrast, was perfect, but swirled the plate more as decoration than a complimenting sauce. This might be where the ‘contemporary’ tag comes in.

As we enjoyed the quiet lull after the primi piatti, the wait staff enquired as to whether we would like the secondi in 10 minutes or if we would like to wait a bit longer – just one example of how impeccable the staff were; they were visible without being intrusive. Aware when we emptied our plates, but refraining from immediately whisking them away. The wait staff exuded the confidence of people who know what their job is and do it well, with satisfaction. Not the same can be said of every restaurant in Doha.

The secondi continued in the theme of excellence. The hammour was melt-in-your-mouth-tender on the inside, with the thinnest veneer of crisp on the outside. The roasted duck was perfectly offset with bell pepper chutney, passion fruit and vanilla salt, which tasted as heavenly as it sounds.

For dessert, go for the homemade ice cream. Warm, balsamic strawberries with vanilla ice cream and honey tuile (that French thing kept popping up): exquisite. Next, top off your meal with an Italian espresso – one of the many luxuries worth going back for. And while a meal at Il Teatro won’t ever be mistaken for a visit to Italy, it is a slightly cheaper and rather tasty alternative.

The bill (for two)
2x Still water large QR76
1x Rucola salad QR45
1x Calamari rings QR55
1x Mozzarella ravioli QR70
1x Linguine with sardines QR70
1x Hammour QR110
1x Duck breast QR140
1x Balsamic strawberries QR40
1x Ice cream QR55
1x Espresso QR35
1x Coffee QR35
Total (incl charges) QR731