Just over a year ago, Bice was the first top class eatery to arrive on the illustrious Pearl. Since then, the Pearl has grown, the sketches now a reality, with top class apartments towering over a bustling marina, with a masterstroke of designer stores completing the luxurious picture. Alongside these additions is an ever- expanding array of new prestigious restaurants. With a total of nearly 200 of the world’s most outstanding food and beverage restaurants set to open, how does Bice fare amongst the competition to date?

We are greeted by the smooth voice of Frank Sinatra, and the mellow tunes of a bygone era which continue throughout the evening. It’s in keeping with the plethora of Hollywood greats that peer at us, forever immortalised in black and white, from numerous photos dotted across the wall of the small bar area. Behind the bar you can’t miss the impressive floor-to- ceiling wine cabinet, holding a selection large enough to tempt any connoisseur’s palate.

The colour scheme is pale yellow and burnt orange, and plays across the curved booth style seating around the edge of the restaurant to a large backlit feature wall of mismatched coloured squares. The booths, although impressive to look at, aren’t quite so comfortable to dine on, so avail yourself of additional seating in the middle of the restaurant. Alternatively, dine al fresco on the impressive balcony area and enjoy breathtaking views of the marina whilst experiencing that familiar yacht envy, which comes as standard when dining at the Pearl.

It’s overly humid the night we dine, so we opt for the less sticky option and choose inside. The lighting is dim, the main source a large central silver light with tree-like branches reaching out to diners as they examine the broad bill of fare. Among the starters are a variety of crisp salads and tempting soups, and the most extensive selection of carpaccio I have seen in an Italian eatery. Ranging from duck to lobster or octopus, there’s also the more traditional beef. Deep-fried calamari and the Tuscan seafood soup with garlic croutons set our taste buds tingling, so are promptly ordered.

Bread is served with a tapenade and sundried tomato dip, but it’s not warmed and is fairly average, with the dips being slightly too oily. The complimentary bruschetta is much tastier, the bread chargrilled and delicious, further enhanced by the ripe chopped tomatoes, and drizzled with the perfect amount of olive oil. Service is at just the right level here, the intervals between courses ideal and the waiting staff diligent. Each course is presented with a flourish, and positioned carefully, creating the impression that the dish before you is an Italian masterpiece to be savoured.

The seafood soup is a fair portion and arrives teeming with fruits of the sea, crowned with juicy mussels and clams in newly opened shells. A tomato-based broth, there’s a pleasant hint of chilli, and each spoonful yields a chunk of tuna, a flavourful prawn or a tender ring of calamari. It’s positively sublime and a seafood lover’s dream. The crispy deep-fried calamari is a robust offering, and also contains strips of zucchini and several large shrimps. Served with tasty dips of mayo and spicy tomato, we tuck in with gusto. Locked in an ethereally light batter, the calamari is inordinately delicate and quite delicious. The zucchini strips are fresh and crispy, but the shrimps seem a tad overly salted, and we are soon defeated by the substantial bowl.

A large range of home-made pastas are on offer for our entrée, from penne to pappardelle, with a variety of delectable sauces. Of course there’s a selection of risotto on the menu, and fish is well represented with salmon fillet, king fish and sea bass available, or choose an assorted fish platter for two for QR400. For meat lovers, there’s a variety of juicy steaks, and no Italian menu would be complete without the traditional pizza offering.

The homemade fettuccine with lobster, however, proves an excellent choice, and is a feast for the eye alone. A whole lobster has been halved and circumscribes a mass of steaming fettuccine in a rich tomato sauce. Large segments of lobster have been removed and intermingle with the perfectly prepared fettuccine strips in a scintillating and spicy sauce, littered with juicy cherry tomatoes. A small fork is provided to prise the remainder of the succulent lobster from its shell, and if you feel patient enough, dig into those juicy claws. It’s a truly impeccable dish and highly recommended.

Sesame-seed-encrusted yellow fin tuna steak is also not to be missed. Served on a sprinkling of soy sauce, it has a definite Asian overtone. An incomparable commingling of tastes and textures, the crunchy sesame seeds are an idyllic contrast to the moist seared tuna. The accompanying sweet roasted peppers, sautéed leeks and crispy red onion further enhance this culinary creation.

Desserts include a selection of Italian cheeses, warm chocolate soufflé, a traditional tiramisu and an unusual cannoli stuffed with ricotta cheese, orange zest and chocolate chips. Homemade panacotta seems a more satisfying conclusion, and is served with fresh berries and a small jug of raspberry sauce. The sweet sauce compliments the thick and creamy, slightly sour panacotta, and the juicy berries are a delight. My partner opts for wild berry pie with lemon cream, and it’s equally sublime. Presented on a large plate, it’s split into a large swirl of freshly whipped lemon cream and two shortcake biscuits, topped with lemon curd and ripe succulent fresh berries. The cream is light and fluffy, with the merest hint of lemon, and we spread plentiful spoonfuls on the fruit pies, which are refreshingly light and crumbly.

Bice has an abundance of culinary charm, the décor is elegant without being ostentatious, the service excellent and the fare of impeccable quality, but it comes at a price. Given the outstanding quality of the cuisine, it’s without doubt one worth paying. This high quality dining establishment will definitely hold its own in spite of the competition, as it stands out as a diamond amongst a string of cultured Pearl eateries.

The bill (for two)
1x Zuppa pesce QR110
1x Calamari gamberi QR95
1x Tonno griglia QR170
1 x Fetticine astice QR180
1x Pannacotta QR50
1x Crostata QR50
2x Cappuccino QR60
2x Aqua Panna QR60
Total (incl charges) QR775