The décor certainly didn’t disappoint. As we pushed our way through a revolving door made out of glass and dark wood, it was as though we had been transported to a bistro right in the heart of the French capital. The first thing you see as you walk in is a huge chandelier hanging elegantly from the ceiling in the centre, and all around the circular dining space, small dimly lit candle-style lights protrude from the walls. French music plays to create the mood, and a bar at the far end is adorned with several ornate looking beer taps. Sadly, though, the beer taps are currently just for show whilst optics hang empty where spirit bottles should be. We were told that Les Deux Magots is in its soft opening phase and that it hasn’t, as yet, been granted an alcohol license, so no extensive list of French wines for now. The maître d’ is dubious about whether the restaurant will ever get one, so instead of a fruity merlot we order a bottle of sparkling water instead.

The choice of starters are somewhat limited – the whole first page of the menu lists a variety of salads whereas I was hoping to see something more typically French like escargots or frogs’ legs. Happily, though, I did find, and ordered, fois gras, whilst my dining partner opted for the Les Deux Magots salad. The main course choices are much more pleasingly French, with a selection of red meat, chicken and fish dishes to choose from, as well as some delicious sounding vegetable accompaniments, such as haricots vertes and frites Francais.

Between us we decided on the duck confit and the boeuf tournedo, but didn’t order any sides, as both come with potatoes and vegetables. As we waited for our starters, a basket of bread was brought to the table, which had, we were told, been made on the premises, but it did not seem fresh enough for this.

As the restaurant was quiet when we arrived, our starters came out of the kitchen quickly. Fois gras is a firm favourite of mine – served at room temperature and then spread straight onto a piece of crispy toast, there’s nothing better. However, Les Deux Magots served it straight from the fridge with nothing to accompany it but a small salad. The French may well eat it like that but, with no bread to balance the strong flavour, it was very rich, and I only managed a few mouthfuls. On the other hand, the salad, which consisted of lettuce, egg, cheese and turkey ham was tasty, albeit unexciting.

In between courses, the waitresses were trying hard to please, which at times was a little irksome. They persisted in re-filling our water glasses before we had even had a chance to take a sip, as well as asking us far too often whether we were enjoying our food. But given it was the soft opening, their keenness was perhaps only to be expected.

Our main courses lived up to all expectations. The duck, which can be prone to being fatty, was tender and juicy, whereas the steak melted in the mouth. It’s worth pointing out here that the French are very particular about what constitutes a good steak, with a philosophy along the lines of ‘cooking it too much ruins it’. So, if you like your beef cooked medium, be sure to ask for it well done, otherwise you might get a bit of a shock.

Despite our main courses having filled us up to the brim, when we saw the dessert list we forced ourselves to find space for a tarte aux citron and a chocolate éclair. Both puddings were served on a tea plate with no frills and no added extras such as cream or ice cream, which was fine with us, as anything more would have undoubtedly pushed us over the edge. Simple yet sweetly satisfying, they rounded off the meal nicely.

Overall the experience was relatively pleasant. The décor, setting and ambiance were eloquent, and hopefully once the soft opening period is over, the service and food will match up. We also have our fingers crossed that Les Deux Magots will be granted an alcohol license, as there is something very French about red meat eaten with red wine. The original Les Deux Magots in Paris is a must visit and, with a little fine tweaking, we hope the Doha one will prove just as popular.

The bill (for two)
1x Les Deux Magots salad QR75
1x Foie gras QR110
1x Boeuf tournedo grill QR160
1x Duck confit QR110
1x Tarte aux citron QR29
1x Eclaire au chocolat QR29
2x San Pellegrino QR38
Total (incl charges) QR551