I would have agreed completely with this review had I read it even a month ago, but I went there last week for the first time since December, and it's undergone a sea change in the food department. We were told that the restaurant has a new chef and what we were about to try was his first menu.

Starting right from the menu, it was an evening to remember.
The dishes on the are imaginative and inspiring, and the presentation is beautiful - and this will explain the 'contemporary Italian' part :-) We were really excited to taste things like guinea fowl with chocolate sauce and ostrich!

Then comes the taste. It is an explosion of flavour!
Between my 3 dining companions and I, we went through 10 dishes, in 3 courses (two of us skipped the pasta course). And the vote about the taste was unanimous. And there comes the 'real' Italian tradition, contemporary restaurant or not :-) In fact, we then did the very unfashionable thing of digging into each other's plates for a taste of all the dishes. If anyone noticed, they were careful not to show it! Even ostensibly simple dishes like the ravioli with aubergine and the tuna tartare turned out unexpected results - outstanding complementing of ingredients and taste. The foie gras with mulled wine sauce was to die for! The stars of the meal were probably the ostrich and the red snapper, the latter with a black couscous that was a real shocker in terms of taste. And the guinea fowl was so delicious!
Unfortunately, we didn't take dessert as we felt that our appetites just couldn't do it justice :-(

Having travelled in Italy extensively, I would say this is right up there with some of my best meals. In fact, we wre told, the menu will be further fine-tuned as they are still working out more imports of fine speciality products from Italy. So maybe on our next trip, we will have more surprises.
The only other 'downer' apart from dessert was that there's no more fried calamari on the menu. But then, to be honest, it has no place on a fine Italian menu of this standard. We'll just take those cravings to TGIF! :-)

It is a carefully thought-out menu, showing refinement in taste, fabulous pairings of flavours within each dish, beautifully-presented and absolutely uncompromising on taste. Combined with the elegant (yet not oppressively so) surroundings and the great Four Seasons service, it was a feast for the senses, and left us with huge grins on our faces. We didn't even begrudge the lighter wallets!
Bravos! We will be back, and this time we will even take dessert.