Spare some sympathy for Chopsticks. Its dodgy psychedelic carpets, questionable music policy and view of a busy highway and a desolate expanse of sandy waste-ground put it onto a loser from the off. With a menu spanning Japanese, Chinese and Thai dishes, this eclecticism may be off-putting to some, but the opportunity to mix and match adds an extra fun element to proceedings. Japan and Thailand are well represented with delicious California rolls and green curry that packs a punch. Things go a little awry when the action moves north to China – a snapper in Szechwan sauce lacking the requisite heat of dishes from that region. On the whole, though, this multi-tasker runs the culinary gamut with skill.