It was a weeknight, but most tables at this Grand Hyatt restaurant were filled – which is always a good sign for a new restaurant. The Grill serves as this newbie hotel’s all-rounder eatery; in the morning, hotel guests go there to eat buffet breakfast and there’s another buffet at lunchtime, but during the night the a la carte menu comes into play. With a couple of open kitchens and wood-fired ovens, the restaurant sits on the ground floor of the hotel, with high ceilings that open up to the lobby. This usually translates to a feeling of emptiness, but when we visited, the refined surroundings were peppered with the conversation of other diners (including numerous Arabs dressed to impress). The menu is refreshingly simple, with a range of appetisers, then three choices of salads, three seafood options, and three meat dishes.

But steak aficionados are spoiled for choice with an extended menu featuring 30-day aged Australian wagyu and grass-fed yearling beef – with your choice of condiments. It’s no-fuss steak – we ordered the expertly cooked 220g beef tenderloin and, aside from a garnish of two cherry tomatoes and caramelised onions, it comes with nothing else. Luckily, we had other dishes to sate our appetite, like the baby spinach salad, which came tossed with roast pumpkin, creamy feta and a scattering of toasted pine nuts. The well-oiled grilled vegetables and the wood-fired asparagus are other outstanding appetisers, the smoky yet crisp asparagus adorned with shaved parmesan and served with a tangy tomato salsa. Price wise, some items may seem a little steep, but the fresh produce and the service more than makes up for it.